The Lozenge technique
There are so many different techniques which can be used in ‘plain’ weave cloth which forms the basis of Saori weaving. Many woven tapestry techniques can be modified to build into cloth which is suitable for drape-able clothing. My biggest inspiration from the tapestry world is Coptic woven tapestry. They used eccentric weaving to create imagery and weren’t hampered or directed by the warp’s invitation to weave at right angles or in the grid. They also used possible distortions within the cloth with the technique to add to its beauty.
This particular technique creates a lozenge shape in the weave. Fantastic for the ‘pop’ colour in cloth. Grab a length of yarn to start. In the illustration here I’ve started and completed my rough lozenge shape over several warps rather than just one. This is how I usually start and finish on a typical pre-wound warp using a sett of 5 dpc. (dents per centimetre) But it’s my personal preference only. You can grow the lozenge at the edges over as many warp threads are you think will look good. Beat down each row with a kitchen fork or tapestry beater. The lozenge will compress into its shape as you beat each row.
When you complete the lozenge shape there will be a bit of a bump in the weave but as long as the lozenge isn’t too high you can just continue weaving from side to side in the usual way. If the bump is quite high – it’s an excuse for another adventure in weaving.