By default, the inkle loom does warp faced weaves. This means the warp (the thread under tension)  is so close together that the weft threads aren’t seen.  Beautiful pick up patterning can be done on this type of set up. But to force the warp threads apart you need to convert the loom with ‘spacers’ so you can weave the weft to and fro, to display its own ways.

To do this you need some plastic tubing that fits snuggly around the heddle peg and the top peg. I’ve  adaptated  a method I learnt in Lavinia Bradley’s wonderful Inkle Weaving book. You can cut the tubing into rings or place deep slits into the tubing as I have done.

My motivation for doing this is that I have to travel shortly and will be ‘naked’ without a loom. This little inkle loom will fit into my bag and easily convert, with this method, into a balanced weave  loom when and if I want.

I’ve had a few people ask me about Saori and how it is different to ‘normal’ weaving. I have to say that it isn’t different and also that it is. It’s more about the approach to weaving and creating with weave combined with a freer mix of techniques within the one textile. I now find myself drawn to yarns and their structure rather than weaving draft patterns when I go to set up a weave. This is a nice place to be at times and having both at my fingertips makes me a lucky weaver indeed.

These sun soaked days are leading to more local interest in weaving textiles. Textiles that capture the organic and changeable beauty of the local environment. Studio days are filling up so a photo montage of happenings is apt at the moment. I’m totally impressed by the way some brand new weavers are approaching weave. You can see their heart, thinking and even their experiences  manifested in how they weave, what colours they choose, even how they place each row.

For many years I used a hard wearing table fork that an older weaver gave me (thank you Pen)  and I still love it. It’s really nice to use tools that you already have. However, for a bit of luxury and for the collector these custom weaving combs are really special. Priced at $70.00 plus post they are 6 cms wide by 17 cms long (to the tip of the handle).

Also on order are are limited number of black/grey silk pre-wound warps for the Saori loom. They are 200 threads by 6 metres, pure silk. Priced at $75.00 plus post. These will be popular, so if you would like to hook up with one please contact me!

The scarf type piece around the neck can come off or on as I like and I’m very happy with it all. There was virtually no waste and any shaping was added with darting which keeps the ‘waste’ on the garment and possibly adds to its durability.

I was reading this post by Weaving today on sewing with handwoven fabrics and I quote the advice in the article – “NEVER cut handwoven cloth doubled; ALWAYS cut a single layer; and IGNORE pattern instructions to cut a piece on the fold. Either flip the pattern over to cut the  other half or, better yet, transfer pattern halves to new pattern paper so you can lay out the entire piece. DOUBLE- and TRIPLE-CHECK the straight-of-grain. As for seam finishes, they are ESSENTIAL.” Pretty scary instructions especially with the yelling directives!

Saori style garments, however, don’t adhere strictly to these rules in the same way. They are unstructured  and if woven in wool tend to hold together on cutting, even forgiving wobbly sewing. When cutting the fabric stitch two parallel lines about .5 cm apart, then cut the fabric between the lines of sewing. This will give some stability to the cut piece before attaching it to the garment. All seams are secured with cut edges hidden by using a variety of techniques including flat felled seams. Of course, this type of approach won’t work on all handwovens, and with all types of patterns but it’s very accessible and fun to sew.

Postnote: Here’s the link to the shoes.

Carmel from Studio Artes in Sydney can be seen in this youtube video immersing herself in the cloth she weaves. Carmel, who is deaf and blind, uses the rhythm of the weave process and its tactile sensations to create beautiful art  cloth. Her world isn’t dependent on ‘seeing’ colours but on actually experiencing them. Sue Byatt and teachers at the studio use taste and experiences to provide her with her own unique colour palette. For example, the taste of a segment of orange communicates an orange colour, the smell of lavender – a gentle purple. I’ve often heard of people who identify musical tones with colours but this is another extraordinary human experience. In what must often be a lonely internal world for Carmel, it’s so heartening that the arts, and weaving particularly, can be a tool for assisting people to find not only meaning in their lives, but a real thread of connection to the world in some form.

Carmel’s work is published by Studio Arts at Blurb. It is an expressive collection of images of her work and you can view the book online before buying . Carmel is now to get her own Saori loom and I asked Sue what Carmel’s  favourite colour was expecting a colour from the rainbow. But it’s ‘ocean’. Congratulations Carmel. I don’t think I can look at blue again without seeing ‘ocean’.

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Image from Saori no Mori, Japan

Saori Japan is so inventive with its products and working methods. See how you can use the bobbin winder to ply interesting yarns for weaving. It’s not something that can be as easily achieved with a wheel or spindle. It plys the yarn with a s twist then its opposite the z twist. Very effective with light and dark yarns together creating patterns which differ from each other depending on the twist direction in the yarn. How easy it that!

Many people have inquired about the Saori clipping rod. How could such a’ low tech’ solution save so much time. You have to see this in operation to believe how expedient this tool is. As always Saori are about leaving the maximum time for creating weaves rather than dwelling in the set up – as enjoyable as the set up can be, these inventive approaches allowed me more weave time.

You can also see these videos from Saori Japan on the Saori Instruction page. So many ideas and not enough time!

Our task over Easter was to mount them and that was successful too as there aren’t too many instructions on how to do this on the net and we had to experiment with petal folds and different papers. They are mounted with glue and wire using a simple petal fold. It’s great to work on such a project, especially with my daughters. We’re going to plan a project each year, even without a wedding as a purpose. Maybe a quilt next.

Teresa mounting the roses

Unfortunately I was unable to attend the workshop but as India stayed with me overnight I gratefully had the opportunity to cook up a silk package with lovely results.

India was also carrying around another package which was dyed at the workshop. Ready to untie and reveal this morning the silk dress dye included some Old Bar seaweed in the mix.

This was coiled around the tightly bound package to create a dye effect but also a print. The resulting colours and effects were very rich and amazing. Contrary to what I had understood about using mordants to dye with natural materials, India’s technique doesn’t require these as additions to the dyepot. There is also a difference in colour results dependent on cooking/simmering times in the pot. So the formula for creating these effects isn’t a fit all one. You have to be intune with the types of plants you are using and ‘feel’ their effects relying on your developing experience as you work with them. But it’s also a technique that can be serendipitous and exciting with first attemps too. Really extraordinary!

When: Friday 22 and Saturday 23 June – 10:00am – 4:00pm – 2days.
Cost: $117.00 per day plus materials (average $15.00-$25.00) The final cost is dependent on number of participants. This cost is the most you will pay. I’m hoping it will be less. Saori looms for 5 participants are provided. You can bring your own loom (10% discount on workshop cost) – rigid heddle and knitters looms welcome. All abilities and experience welcome.

What you will learn: How to weave creative cloth with expressive techniques aimed to enhance and draw out your own style and approach immediately. You will have a full yarn colour palette to work with and learning within the group will be a feature of the tuition. For more advanced weavers Saori loom warping instruction will also be offered. If you attend the 2 day workshop you should be able to complete a scarf length, shug style wrap or small banner/art piece.

For more information please contact me or Jane Hosking at the gallery.