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Posts from the ‘Patternmaking’ Category

No end to weaving

SaoriSkirtPatternThere seems to be no end in sight to weaving and making clothes at the moment. This one was made with my 85cm w i d e width cloth. I still prefer the dynamic feel of narrower textiles but the up side is a very short sewing timeframe because there is far less stitching. This skirt is very easy to make.

This is the result of my first cloth on the WX90. It’s a mix of cotton, organic cotton and silk then cram dyed to give a stronger effect. The pattern is number 30, p56 in the Shitate no Hon clothing book. This book really has a lot of great ideas in it.

It has elastic around the waist because of the limited shaping for the waist. I used fold over elastic which is perfect for this type of design. It is exposed but saves sewing a pocket for the elastic.

The measurements are small so I would recommend taking your own measurements and applying them to the design to check that it will fit or use an old sheet or calico to make a quick mock up toile. I also made longer slits in the central front underskirt panel to get more movement.  Otherwise it’s a very flexible style and very comfy skirt to wear. Imagine using an entirely different weave fabric for the central underskirt panel!  I used the weftwise grain rather than with the warp down the body as with a conventional garment cut. I know this can affect the drape on the body but it is fine in this cloth.

The button closure is decorative only. So you could go mad with it or just go conservative like I did! Basically the skirt piece wraps from the front around the back then to the front again to form the crossover closure style at the front. Another panel creates the underskirt which is stitched at the front only.

Onto the next design…

 

Bias. What’s not to like?

biastowear2Indeed. The Bias to Wear workshop is now over but I leave you with a few photos of the great afternoon.  This bias technique for clothing was one I learnt recently at Saori in Japan. Its beauty isn’t the fact that you can make bias clothing, of course you can in many ways. For me it’s the calculation of the length of fabric needed based on your woven fabric width and the easy process to begin building the bias ‘blank’. This builds the initial form with no wastage or fancy scissor work.

From this point the magic of styling and designing can begin in your own way.  Narrow cloth or wide the stitching works in the same way every time. For example a bias ‘blank’ for a poncho style of garment will require 3.62 metres of cloth in a woven finished width of 28cms. After working that calc  you can relax into the weaving like with assurance about the woven length you’ll need.

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We all had a bit of fun stitching a small hat sized bias ‘blank’ in calico to get the idea.

We reviewed how to stitch up the seams on our handwovens to keep away the frays and CUT the fabric. Yes, cutting is part of it, you need armholes and neck openings even if you don’t cut off any fabric in the process.

What can you make. Well anything. Tops, jackets, dresses, pants, skirts, hats and even bags. Bias cut just makes everything drape and fit better and angles the fabric to make stripes diagonals rather than vertical or horizontal.

bias2Although it was a short two hour workshop I think we covered a very good start and what better way to spend a Saturday afternoon than thinking about clothing and weaving, designing cutting and sharing experiences together. Thank you to Dominique, Susie, Emily, Marilyn and Michelle.bias4bias1