Aug
25
2006
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MidCoast Water have been honoured with a wonderful gift for their support of the Water Aid program to the worlds’s newest country – East Timor.
East Timor is smaller than Tasmania and has a rich diversity of people established by thousands of years of different people travelling through. East Timor comprises aspects of both the Malay and the Melanesian-Oceanic world. This gift is a significant one for an Australian corporation but needs some context for appreciation.
Generally textiles are not understood in Australia in the same way as our northern neighbours.As all our textiles are produced in factories we have little meaning attached or understanding of them apart from liking a colour or drape of the seasons fashion.
This woven tais , pronounced ‘tie-sh’, is a warp faced, striped cloth featuring a hand pick up on a horizontal (blue/white) background. The designs are six pointed stars with the lettering Timor Leste and two human face like symbols. You’ll also notice that the cloth is directional with the 2 human symbols facing towards one end of the cloth.
As in Indonesia and many other Asian countries, textiles and their production have an intimate connection with the rites of passage through life. They are infused with meaning. The closest approximation to this in Australia could be a wedding dress or a christening gown – but the focus would generally be style rather than the textiles themselves. Tais in Timor are like sacred family heirlooms, woven in particular ways, taken as dowry and offered in ritual exchange. In my view, countries that value textiles in this way view time differently. Handloomed and hand dyed textiles need time that is factored into life and its meaning – whereas the west view time as money, and we are always faced with decisions about how we use our time and if something is ‘worth’ doing based on its monetary value.
I’ve tried to research some background to the cloth myself and I think it is a Salendang. These textiles can be worn like scarves and shawls at traditional and modern meetings in Timor. These types of cloths can be woven to order by the local women and since 1970’s colours, designs and motifs were adjusted to suit the requests of customers. The use of text and writing began to appear in memento tais and under Indonesian occupation many soldiers bought them as souvenirs. Ref
Tais can be presented to foreigners on occasion such as this one and needs to be understood as an extension of the Timorese way of giving. In the western tradition we wrap the present up, but here the tais is used to ‘wrap up’ the receiver..as a functional textile for the person. That is the Timorese way of giving, and it should be seen as an honour by the receiver. Ref. For safety and display of the tais, Midcoast Water have framed it in glass, and although this detracts from the meaning of the textile, I think it is an Australian way of honouring the gift as we would frame a painting or certificate and it is suited to the corporate enviroment so all customers and staff can feel something of another world close to them – the newest nation on Earth.
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| The gift Tais from Timor |
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| Close up of tais/ click for larger photo |
Aug
18
2006

My new collection of books from Ebay and other sources are inspiring me to dream of what I could do one day!
Traditional Indian Textiles by John Gillow and Nicholas Barnard is just a visual feast of woven, printed and embroidered textiles in full luscious and yummy colour. Great dye and ornamentation inspiration.
I consider myself lucky to have scored Navajo and Hopi Weaving Techniquesby Mary Pendleton published in 1975. Along with authentic Navajo weaving instructions it also includes Hopi weaving techniques which I haven’t come across very often. I’ve wanted this book for many years.
Making Kumihimo by Rodrick Owen is stretching my collection as this book is really dedicated to braids made on the takadai rather than the marudai. However it is a beautiful book and I hope that some of its ideas are transferable.
The Book of Kimono by Norio Yamanaka is really a guide to dressing and wearing kimono. I think it is the practical application and companion for what I consider to be the most wonderful read: Kimono by Liza Dalby.
Lastly the total excitement Maori Fibre Techniques by Mick Pendergrast. This covers a broad range of basketry and textile techniques including whiri braiding, some taniko and one of my favourites, knotless looping which is used in traditional bags of the Indigenous peoples of Australia. Although there is no colour in the book it is full of many photos, some historical, and clear illustrations of techniques. Mick has written several books, Fun with Flax being a great accessible introduction to weaving with NZ Flaz.
Aug
10
2006
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Recently my sister-in-law cited a ‘pearl of wisdom’ that she heard somewhere about the three things that humans need.
- Something to do
- Something to love (not necessarily someone)
- Something to look forward to.
Although I would also add that these should come from a variety of sources to be a well rounded person, weaving and textiles certainly do all three for me.
There is ALWAYS something to do and think about. I absolutely love textile techniques and a wonderful textile always makes my heart flutter. And there is ALWAYS another challenge, puzzle and design to look forward to.
The tablet weaving photographed here is my version of a Viking inspired Birka Stapwork motif by Carolyn Priest-Dorman. You can just make out the distinctive pattern (hidden by my choice of yarns) in the black lines. The pattern requires complex individual turnings of the cards in an 8 turn turning sequence. More general info on Viking tablet weaving is here.
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Aug
07
2006
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One of the problems with weaving is the unavoidable waste that seems to be inherent in any warp. You have to add about 75cm waste to any warp length calculations on the loom. This is just yarn that won’t be woven and can only be used for fringe….or just wasted. The thought of this waste pushes me to weave longer lengths even when it doesn’t suit me.
Of course this depends on the size and type of loom you use. As my loom has 24 shafts and is quite long at the back the loom waste is potentially more like 1.5metres, which alot of waste!. But I use a method of adding extra cord lengths to the back beam apron. This allows me to really get the most out of a warp as you can see in these photos. The end of the warp on this project is nearly up to the back of the heddles and total waste for the back is only 55cms!
It’s exciting reaching the end of a project because I’m anticipating it being cut down off the loom. I’ve been weaving this Ikat band for a few months now. The first couple of metres were woven off as bookmarks, the last few metres as continuous band which I will use to finish off and trim another woven fabric length.
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| The end of the warp nearing the heddles |
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| Another view of the end of the warp |
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| The Ikat band freshly cut off the loom |
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Aug
05
2006
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I’ve been wanting to do an afghan or blanket for my new nephew but all the patterns I started previously just didn’t go right. I usually persevere with difficult things for a long time (only in the textile area of life!) but I think you have to know when a pattern is just not going to work for you.
So I scoured the Internet and stumbled on a great shells and cluster pattern. I’m using a 3 ply machine washable wool from Bendigo woollen mills and a 3.0mm hook … the drape is just wonderful. And it has a great texture. So good that it would make a good summer top as crochet can often be quite stiff in comparison to a knitted fabric. I cast on 258 chain to start and intend making the rug a square.
The pattern is basically a two row repeat and has a lovely relaxing rhythm. |
| Crochet relaxation with the shells & Clusters |
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| The Shells and Clusters pattern |