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Archive for January, 2009

Warp Hack

In computer terms a hack is a way of overriding a problem. It doesn’t solve the problem elegantly or ‘properly’ but it works.

I’ve recently had to discover a hack for the annoying skype code that pops up when you type a phone number in html. I’ve discovered that it is some sort of add-on to IE but when you need a phone number to display as an example in a formatting lesson you can’t guarantee that some people won’t have it installed. Luckily I discovered an ugly, yet very practical, hack to stop it happening. (I put a character after the phone number such as ” to make it seem like it isn’t a phone number then make the character a white text colour so it won’t be seen on the page).

The same applies to weaving. Here I’m attaching a warp to the back warp beam. When I wind very small warps such as this one with only 16 ends they inevitable get tangled around no matter what I do and the cross doesn’t make any sense. Instead of pulling the stick out and getting in a mess with all the other warps already organised, I just CUT the small warp, reorganise and then attach another piece of strong yarn to reconnect it. Not elegant but it works really well and is efficient.

You can see here that this warp has alot of different smaller warps to create the whole. My hack helped make the raddling process more enjoyable….so that has to be good.

Once my hack, which sounds like something lacking quality or integrity, would have just been how you fix an error or unexpected problem. Like mending a broken warp end. I wonder whether the word hack is used to point out our lack of control which is seen as negative and we should somehow be doing something properly which isn’t always possible or sensible and then feel guilty and unsettled about it. I’m feeling pretty good about my hacks of the past few days though.

 

 

Dyeing to Inspire

Thanks to the Online Weavers, Spinners and Dyers Guild I’ve been ‘re-activated’ to dye more. The ‘Easy Ikat and Warp Painting’ Workshop that I ran in November gave me lots of ideas and you can see some of the inspiring results of the participants’ efforts here. There are so many different ways with colour and one weaver used natural dyes. I tried to encourage all weavers to just ‘have a go’ because that is how I got started. If I have a little success with something I tend to try it again….otherwise, I’m a bit deflated and need real encouragement.

In the top right photo here you can see a digression from the simplest ikat approach in dyeing using randon ties along the warp length. I’ve still done this but instead of tying all white yarn I’ve tied a one dark (black) one light (white) arrangement. As the textile will have a warp emphasis the one dark, one light warp order will produce horizontal stripes in plain weave. After untying the ikat ties I was surprised at the amount of dye that seeped through on this occasion but the result is beautifully subtle. Some of the workshop participants noticed this in their dyeing too but perhaps I’ve overlooked it until now. I’ll see what eventuates in the weave up.

Bhutanese Textiles ~ Up Close and Personal

Getting up close with the textiles from Bhutan is extraordinary. I can hardly see the weave with a gigantic magnifier so I’m sure I wouldn’t be able to actually weave it! The weavers are often in dimly lit rooms too.

This type of weave is used in making the Kira – the womens’ national dress.  The longer horizontal arms are made with a type of soumak stitch manipulated by hand through an open shed. The weavers use a beautiful pointed pick up stick to assist them. This type of stitch allows a long horizonal line without floats. You can see the other diamond shaped patterns are woven by a straight pick up and have small floats.

Here is a diagram of how I think the horizontal work is done using one thread doubled by anchoring it around a warp thread. To go up the vertical the threads are basically twisted around each other and anchored under a warp ready to do the soumak line again. This works because the warp is fine, sett at 115 epi.  The diagram only shows the soumak work but rows of plain weave are woven as well.

I also tried this on a much coarser sett and it was a great way to introduce texture and line patterning to a plain weave. The soumak creates a raised texture which sits higher than the surrounding ground weave. As the pattern is worked on the open shed it only shows on the face of the textile.

There’s a poetry about the weave. Over 5 and back 2, working on the diagonal for the pick up pattern and working many different coloured threads. This rhythm is evident not only in the design but the way it is worked. I was a bit surprised by this, but then I shouldn’t have been. This type of skill is taught. It isn’t a free flowing, unorderly work of self expression. It is a highly technical skill which takes 6 years of study to learn (if you attend the college in Thimpu)  and order in working is important.

If you look at the illustration of the pattern, you can see the the arrows showing the direction of the soumak weave. It has a mathematical and sublime quality.

I know our textiles tell stories but in getting very close to this special Bhutanese weave I really discovered more about the people and country of Bhutan. These expressions are woven with the style, patterning, colour and structure of the cloth itself. Woven textiles are created to inspire the heart and the Bhutanese have a special word for it – Hingtham which means ‘heart weaving’. A language that has a word for this indicates the value of textiles in the culture. As a weaving community we need to make new special words to succinctly express our passion for our art and its connection to our lives.

I have a short video on YouTube where you can see a weaver in Bhutan doing the weave with the pick up stick.

 

 Handweaving a Kira in Bhutan.

 

 

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