Exploring SAORI garment construction

Over the lockdowns I’ve presented a couple of Saori garment construction workshops online. In the first sessions of Weave~Cut~Stitch~Shape I overviewed a couple of simple SAORI garments from the Beginners SAORI Clothing Design book.

In this beginner introduction I wanted to cover the following:

-Japanese aesthetics and how they differ to much of our experiences in Australia.

-Offering support and guidance on cutting your handwoven cloth.

-Finishing your cloth to what you want and taking advantage of what the fibres will do.

This is a prime example of how finishing affects a cloth – cashmere

-How to secure and stitch seams and hems on your cloth. And what these methods look like on your garments.

-How to adapt the clothing shapes to different sizes. Different strategies can be used depending on the design.

For example, this great simple design (my favourite) can be sized up with the addition of a side panel, This keeps the neckline and shoulderline from getting too big and unflattering. Sizing down is a matter of weaving a narrower panel for the Front and Back

One issue that is a shortcoming for us in this book is sizing. Although the simple style of the clothing is very flexible for sizing the measurements given can fall short for many if not most people in Australia where our population is very diverse in body shapes and sizes. I give tips on how to make this easy and not limiting as it can feel. From adding woven lengths to creating darts where they work there are many simple ideas for adjusting these types of free designs.

This is an example of a great little jacket with all sorts of possible variations . To make a larger size make sure it is long enough in length as most of the patterns require more length and join pieces lengthwise to make the panels wide enough to fit across the back.
Here is an example of a neckline adjustment. Use random darts to get the shape you want and put the darts on the outside to make nice unexpected corrugations. Darting is an easy shaping tool.

Anja was delighted with the top she wove and stitched up after the workshop. With her permission I offer you this wonderful photo of her work. She found the top very wearable and comfortable which, after all, is the aim of creating clothing for ourselves.

SAORI clothing design is creative and open in its approach. It is unstructured, relaxed and focuses on the woven cloth as its major feature. Saori inspired weaving insists that everyone can weave the cloth so the clothing can be just as easy and certainly rewarding when you can wear it.

I’m weaving up for my next online session which will focus on bias designs. If you are resident in Australia please subscribe to my newsletter for updates on these types of sessions.


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Comments

2 responses to “Exploring SAORI garment construction”

  1. Kathleen Cone Avatar
    Kathleen Cone

    Thank you for the tip on altering the Saori pattern sizes. I like some of the clothing, but when I have tried it, it does not do what I want it to do. Also I wish your newsletter was available for those of us outside of Australia.

  2. Anna Avatar
    Anna

    I also found the top design I chose did not quite fit so I played a bit with paper and tape to make a pattern, then tacked my fabric pieces together by hand before sewing them. I hadn’t tacked anything for many years but this saved time and allowed me to make something that is very comfortable.

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