Warp abrash with echo weave via the Warping Wheel

Struggling with a dilemma….well probably one that others have solved first. But when you are thinking of how to solve problems yourself it feels like you’re the first. Like an adventure without leaving the house.My problem is all that white yarn in my stashed supplies. It’s so difficult to get the range of colours that seem so available in other countries. This is why I dye most of my yarn and I’m always trying to avoid ‘double skeining’. That is winding a skein up, dyeing it, then winding a package or cone ready to wind into a warp. Notice the word ‘wind’ occuring too much in the sentence.Mostly I use a combination of fibres to get around this and do the final dye with the woven piece. But what about the type of echo weave here. One thread of each colour works best on this weave. The other advantange is that I will be able to add ‘abrash‘ to each dyed yarn as I paint it.The problem: how can I dye these and use my AVL warping wheel to wind the warp onto the loom?

Firstly the warp calcs: I decided on 672 ends in total. This means 42 ends per section (my sections are 2cms) I will require 16 sections in total to equal the required 672 ends. (16 x 42 = 672 ) Of those 42 ends there are 3 different colour which equates to 14 ends per colour. The colours above are purple (14 ends per section to be dyed) Black (14 ends to be wound but I already have black), and pinkish (14 ends per section to be dyed). This means creating 16 separate warps with 42 ends for each colour. HOWEVER, I have to separate these clearly so that, after dyeing, I will place the 3 x 16 end warps (one purple, one black, one pinkish) all together back onto the warping wheel to be wound onto the sectional warp beam.

Here is how I layed each of the warps. I was using 2/20 tencel and laid each section through the reed as 2/2/3/2/2/3	Up close, see each section is taped off securely and the next section wound on top. 16 sections all shown here.
	Cutting the warp off the warping wheel.

	Securing both ends ready for dyeing. Do you think my plan will work? I hope it does…it will be worth it if 1) I don’t have to wind so many times 2) I can get colours I want without having to search the world. 3) I can create ‘abrash’ in echo weave.

Posted

August 20, 2010

Blog, Dyeing

Curiousweaver

Comments

6 responses to “Warp abrash with echo weave via the Warping Wheel”

Meg in Nelson

August 21, 2010

I don’t know exactly how sectional warping works, but this sounds like a result of a lot of thinking. Is sectional warping that much preferable to regular warping, in your view?
curiousweaver

August 22, 2010

Hi Meg
It seems that sectional warping is much easier to do by yourself and has good even tensions generally. It’s easy enough to do a traditional warp on an board or mill then dye it how ever you like but to do this with a sectional warping system such as the AVL warping wheel is a bit more of a ‘think’ around.
kaz
Peg in South Carolina

August 24, 2010

Beaming on with weights makes it very easy to get even tension when warping B2F by y yourself. I suspect it even beats warping with another person, who may not be as equally strong across the warp throughout the whole process……..Your reasons for dying are precisely my reasons. And even in the good ole USA, colors are limited, especially, it seems, to what is popular during any given season. And yes, there is a lot of winding! But I need to dye for weft as well as warp, so I guess I have no choice but to skein and wind and wind…………..
textillian

August 24, 2010

It sounds like this will work, though I am curious about whether you are going to use a tension box to wind on the sections after dyeing. I have never used a warping wheel, so I am not familiar with the process.

My first thought, which I have been thinking about doing for a while, is to wind a warp for each color the length of the warp to go on the loom times the number of sections. Let’s say your warp is going to be 3m long, than each of the 14 ends in the warp that I would wind would be 3m * 16sections = 48m. Then, when winding onto the loom, only wind 3m in each section. Problem is, doing this method, abrash would be more difficult to achieve.
curiousweaver

August 25, 2010

Hi there!
Yes the small bouts will go through a tension process but via the warping wheel. I’m trying to put the bout back on the wheel after dyeing. I know the dyeing will shrink the yarn and mess it up some but I’m going to try. However, you have given me an idea. I was going to put each colour back on the warping wheel together. But it might be better to wind each colour onto the section beam – one at a time. Thanks!!
FiberGeek

January 22, 2011

Were you able to make this work? I have a new AVL Warping Wheel and I have been thining about how to make a warp and paint it then put it back on the wheel. I know of at least one other person with the same question.

Now that you have used the Warping Wheel for a while, I would love to see any hints or tips that you have discovered.